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Problems with Printing White ink on dark Garments STILL!!!

Posted on Mon, 16 Aug 2004 at 15:48



Hi,
I am still pursuing the ability to print white ink on darker garments. This is always a problem for some reason. I am going to try a newman screen I just bought with a screen mesh of 110. Does anyone have any suggestions for ink? I have been using wilflex. I spoke with a supplier who said white ink is not "press ready" directly from the container, and I if bought his ink he would tell me to make it "press ready!" What does this mean? I have tried, softhand extender and a curable reducer. I can get acceptable results most of the time but not with consistency. Also I tend to lose that soft hand look. I am using a four color manual press and either a triple durometer squeegee or a constant force squeege. This job is white ink on red 50/50 t-shirts. I realyy need to conquer this white ink issue, it's driving me nuts!!!!!!!!! I appreciate any help or advice as usual.
Thanks
Gary

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Comments

Anonymous says: first of all, you need to make sure that the ink that you are using is bleed resistant.that means that the dye in the polyester wont migrate into the white ink. ive found that with a little soft hand ...

first of all, you need to make sure that the ink that you are using is bleed resistant.that means that the dye in the polyester wont migrate into the white ink.

ive found that with a little soft hand base and some wilflex bright tiger printed through mesh counts 195 thru 255 (print flash print) will give you a soft hand, and an opaque coverage. salesmen always want you to but more from them, freakin peddlers. ask that guy for 5 gallons of CHINGA TU MADRE!

posted on: Mon, 08/16/2004 - 4:18pm
Anonymous says: Hi jr, Thanks for the tip. I just ordered the bright tiger, I am going to see how this works. I was mistaken however, I have been using WM not wilflex. Mainly because I am a small shop and the white ends ...

Hi jr,
Thanks for the tip. I just ordered the bright tiger, I am going to see how this works. I was mistaken however, I have been using WM not wilflex. Mainly because I am a small shop and the white ends up going bad before I can fininsh it. The wilflex is only available in gallons whereas the Wm is available in quarts. I am going to try this tho and see how it works out.
Thanks
Gary

posted on: Tue, 08/17/2004 - 2:39pm
Anonymous says: Problems printing on dark tees. Is one brand of ink better than another? We use Wilflex bright tiger. posted on: Wed, 08/25/2004 - 4:40pm
Anonymous says: International Coatings makes Low bleed Low Viscosity which works well as and underbase to block dye migration, with a International coatings Ultra white on top. posted on: Fri, 10/01/2004 - 8:12pm
Bill Hood says: Gary, if you still have the problem, call or email me and I will help you to print white on black with no problems. The big guys do it all day, every day and you can too, once you have the knowledge. Bill ...

Gary, if you still have the problem, call or email me and I will help you to print white on black with no problems. The big guys do it all day, every day and you can too, once you have the knowledge.

Bill Hood
Ultrasol Inks
512.801.6458
http://ultrasolinks.com

email: bill@ultrasolinks.com

posted on: Sun, 01/03/2010 - 9:27pm
mjnorl says: sounds like you are using the correct stuff. bright tiger is a good ink and you don´t need to add anything. in fact if you do it it is worse. i normally use buffalo white. but, bright tiger is ok, or ...

sounds like you are using the correct stuff. bright tiger is a good ink and you don´t need to add anything. in fact if you do it it is worse. i normally use buffalo white. but, bright tiger is ok, or perhaps you can use buffalo on the base and tiger on the second white.

first you need to be sure to have a good coat on your mesh, i use 110 for the base. if you don´t have a densitometer touch the stencil on your screen and you must barely feel a bevel. if you don´t feel it you don´t going to have enough ink deposit. probably you need an additional coat of emulsion on the mesh. be sure to end the coating of the mesh on the side where the squeegee goes. this will push the emulsion through the mesh. on this way, the emulsion will leave the bevel on the shirt side. while you dry the mesh be sure to let it rest shirt side down not squeegee side down. so the emulsion remains where we want it. do the same with a 160 mesh.

sometimes a common problem is not lack of coverage. but excess of fibrillation on your garment. and people tends to confuse this problems. i bought a 30 dls pocket microscope on radioshack. buy one is very useful for this and several other problems. with this i check if it is a fibrillation or coverage problem. if you find all the fibers covered with ink then is a coverage problem you´ll need a thicker deposit or a more opaque ink. but if you find fibers coming out from your ink deposit then your fabric is too fussy. there are several ways to deal with it. first try to avoid this kind of fabrics whenever it is possible. if it is not possible then. do not abuse of the heat on your flashes. heat just enough to gelify the ink. and nothing more. the heat can toast the fibers and make them more rough making the problems worse. if this is not enough use and extra screen 305 and try a 50/50 mix of primerclear with spandesol for cotton or 100% jersey base for poly. this will plain the fibers just like i apply gel on my hair to plain my curly hair. don´t worry this will not affect the soft hand touch. i sure. if this is still not enough use a gray base instead buffalo white like rutland´s dino gray. if it is not available you can mix your own grey base adding pigments to your white. it should look like a 421c. the properties of the grey bases are able to cover fibers. i don´t going to explain why here due the time. but believe it is true. this won´t affect the white look you want achieve i have done it thousand of times for nike and adidas.
as i told. you can use buffalo and tiger on poly. but you must to be sure that the ink deposit is not going higher than 285 degrees on the drier or you are going to have dye migration. use a thermoprobe to ensure this, due the drier never tells you the truth about temperature. if you don´t have one. then use jersey white instead of the tiger and buffalo. by the way you can turn it gray too if you need it. even using jersey white drop down your drier temperature to 285.

here are the sequences i recommend:
cotton
primerclear/spandesol on 305, NO flash, buffalo white on 110, flash, bright tiger on 160
poly
jersey base on 305, no flash, jersey white on 110, flash, jersey white on 160
just use a grey base if you really needed since with grey as a base. you will need tighter registration.

play with your squeegees i use hard squeegees but sometimes depending of the art i use a soft squeegee on the second white.

flood your screens with some pressure before stroke. when you stroke do it with all the pressure possible but without driving the ink through the fabric. if you have ink on the opposite side of your fabric then you are using too much pressure. once you stroke check your screen. the image on the screen must bee clean. if it is not then you are not using enough pressure

hope it helps

hernan

posted on: Sat, 07/24/2010 - 12:37am
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posted on: Sat, 01/15/2011 - 6:04am
neleson says: Hi, I think there is nothing problem with your printers and ink. You need to change some variables and techniques during the printing process. Printing on light garments is much easier than printing white ...

Hi,

I think there is nothing problem with your printers and ink. You need to change some variables and techniques during the printing process. Printing on light garments is much easier than printing white on dark garments. On a light garment, not as much ink is required to achieve good coverage.

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